Adjective dye - a dye that requires the use of a mordant in order for the dye to stick to the fibre surface.
Alkaline - an aqueous solution where the pH of the solution is higher than 7 when measured with pH paper.
Aluminium Acetate - a powder is refined from bauxite, a sedimentary rock. It is one of a large group of compounds referred to as metal salts. It works very well as a mordant for cellulose (plant) fibres. It helps the dye molecules bond with the fibres. Alum mordant is a cheaper option, but while it works great with protein fibres (wool and silk), it’s not as good with plant fibres. Using Aluminum Acetate it is possible to achieve vibrant and lasting colours with natural dyes on cellulose fibres.
Calcium Carbonate/Chalk - a common chemical compound found in rocks as the minerals calcite and aragonite and is the main component of eggshells, snail shells, seashells, and pearls. This product is Calcium Carbonate made from fine ground limestone. In limestone, it occurs as the mineral calcite.
Colour shifting - how to change the colour of a dye by changing pH. It is also used for creating a darker shade by using iron.
Cellulose fibres - fibres made with compounds of cellulose which can be obtained from the bark, wood or leaves of plants, or from other plant-based material. In addition to cellulose, the fibres may also contain hemicellulose and lignin, with different percentages of these components altering the mechanical properties of the fibres.
Dye Extract - a powdered form of colour derived from nature.
Dye plant - a plant that creates natural dyes. The plant produces a result when eco-dyed and/or can be extracted for a dye bath.
Dye stuff - something that can be used as a natural dye.
Eco-dyeing or eco-printing - a form of natural dyeing where the colours or natural dyes from plant materials are transferred to another object such as fibre or paper via steaming or boiling. A common term for laying dyestuffs directly on prepared fibre, and rolling it into a bundle so that the dyes directly print onto the surface of the fabric.
Exhaust bath - using a mordant bath or dye bath multiple times to absorb all of the possible mordant or remaining dye in the pot.
Extracting - manipulating the dye stuff to remove as much colour as possible to apply to fibre.
Extract - plant extract refers to a product that is formed through an extraction and separation process where plants are used as raw materials. Generally in a powder or granular form for natural dyeing purposes.
Fugitive - a natural dye that quickly fades. A colour that is not lightfast or washfast.
Grams per Litre (gpL) - an expression used to determine the amount of indigo in a vat. The higher the gpL, the darker the vat will be.
Lightfastness - a colour's resistance to fading.
Mellowing - a slight fading of colour. For example, the initial brilliance of colour may lessen after a final rinse.
Mordant - a separate immersion bath that fibre is agitated in for a period of time before it is naturally dyed. Mordant’s help dye bind to the surface of the fibre and are used to achieve the most durable and long lasting colours.
Natural dyes - colourants derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. The majority of natural dyes are vegetable dyes from plant sources—roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood—and other biological sources such as fungi.
Organic materials - a material that has grown from the ground.
pH - a measure of acidity or alkalinity of water soluble substances (pH stands for ‘potential of Hydrogen’). A pH value is a number from 1 to 14, with 7 as the middle (neutral) point. Values below 7 indicate acidity which increases as the number decreases, 1 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. What this means for the natural dyer is that you can raise pH with basic ingredients such as soda ash, calcium hydroxide or other mild bases. You can lower pH with cream of tartar, citric acid or vinegar. The range of colours is great. Dyestuffs create unique shades depending on the acidity or alkalinity of the baths.
Protein Fibres - the protein fibres are formed by natural animal sources through condensation of a-amino acids to form repeating polyamide units with a various substituent on the a-carbon atom. In general, protein fibres are fibres of moderate strength, resiliency, and elasticity. They have excellent moisture absorbency and transport characteristics. They do not build up a static charge. For example, wool, silk, mohair, cashmere.
RFD - ready for dyeing.
Resist - a resistant substance applied as a coating to protect a surface during a process, for example to prevent dye or glaze adhering.
Saddening or Sadden - when a goes from a vibrant colour to a more muted colour. Often this is done using iron water to make a brighter colour grayer.
Scour - a textile term for washing or cleaning fibres prior to mordanting and dyeing, often using a cleanser such as soda ash, or a soap, and near boiling water.
Scouring - the process of preparing fibre for the natural dyeing process. This step is used to strip fibres of oils, dirt and other surface grime that would cause it to not take on the colour during dyeing.
Soda Ash - a naturally occurring inorganic compound, Sodium Carbonate became known as Soda Ash. It's other use in natural dyeing is as a scouring agent for natural fibres. Soda Ash is a mild base, it can be used to raise the pH of an indigo vat or a madder dyebath, to make them more alkaline.
Solar dyeing - adding mordanted fibre, dye materials and water to a clear glass jar and allowing it to sit in the sun until colour begins to seep from the dye stuff into the fibre. The sun is the heat source for this light heat bath.
Sustainability - the ability to maintain a certain activity over a long period of time without negatively affecting the surrounding environment or people.
Tannins - a organic chemical compound that is sourced from oak galls and other organic materials and is used to assist fibre to absorb mordants and thus dye more effectively
Wash Fastness - the resistance dyed colour has to fade when washed. It refers to how well the natural colour adheres to the fibre.
Weight of fibre (WOF) - the dry weight of whatever one is dyeing.
WOF - weight of fibre.